Anchoring: Don't make it a drag
Anchoring allows you to stop for lunch or overnight in quiet and pleasant surroundings away from the crowds. It is also the first line of action if the engine fails in shallow water because it stops the boat and allows the problem to be resolved.
The important thing when anchoring is to ensure that you feel confident that you are securely at anchor. If you feel nervous and are worried that you are dragging, there is no way you can relax. These tips from Paul Glatzel's Powerboat Handbook will hopefully ensure that you feel secure.
There are various types of anchors. The choice depends on your chosen cruising ground. Some anchors have good holding in mud and sand, others are designed to pierce weed and get in between rocks.
Some popular types of anchor
Almost a fixed version of the Plough. Often used by craft with electric winches as it resets itself well into the bow roller.
 | CQR or Plough: A strong anchor with good holding power. |
 | Danforth: A flat anchor with good holding |
 | Bruce: A good anchor with excellent holding. |
 | Delta: Almost a fixed version of the Plough. Often used by craft with electric winches as it resets itself well into the bow roller. |
Things to consider before anchoring:
- Look for a sheltered anchorage.
- Take a trial run to assess depth, and allow for a falling tide.
- Avoid main channels and submarine power lines; use charts to identify areas.
- Prepare the anchor line and anchor.
- How much rope and chain needs to be put out?
- Check charts for obstructions and what ground to expect.
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The anchor is connected to a ‘scope’ of chain, or a chain and rope combination. The amount of scope let out when anchoring depends on whether the scope is all chain or a mixture. The more scope you let out reduces the chances of the boat snatching the anchor out of the seabed. It also acts as a shock absorber.
If in a tidal area you need to allow for the rise of tide in your calculations. The amount of scope carried on board depends on your area of operation. In shallow estuaries 30m would be sufficient whereas in deep and rocky areas considerably more may be required.
Dropping the anchor
The process of anchoring is very similar to picking up a mooring buoy. RIBs and speedboats with open bows are easier to anchor, because going forward is easy.
On larger craft with anchor lockers at the bow, a crew member must go onto the foredeck to anchor but with caution, keeping their centre of gravity low.
- Look for shelter.
- Check depth.
- Approach chosen anchor point in same direction as you would for a mooring buoy.
- When at the chosen point stop the boat.
- Drop the anchor to the seabed.
- As vessel drifts back, ease out scope to 4:1 (all chain) or 6:1 (rope chain) ratio.
- Make fast and engage reverse briefly to dig the anchor in.
Dragging and swinging
Yachts and powerboats move in different ways as the stream or wind changes. Check your anchor is not dragging by:
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- Identifying a transit and checking it at regular intervals.
- Setting up the anchor-drag function on your GPS.
- Taking a bearing from a hand bearing compass.
- If the objects in transit cease to be lined up or the bearing changes, you are dragging.
- If your anchor is dragging, you will need to raise it and re-anchor.
- If it continues to drag choose a different anchorage.
Raising the anchor
- Check to see how the boat is lying.
- If the boat is pulling back away from the anchor, you may need to slowly motor towards the anchor as the crew pulls in the slack and raises the anchor.
- Good crew communication is essential to avoid overrunning and fouling the prop.
- Hand signals between crew and helmsman are useful.
- Bring the anchor and line on-board, and stow it away so it is ready for immediate redeployment.